The Srinagar Airport turned out to be a small airport, after having seen the infrastructure giant that the Delhi Airport had become thanks to the GMR group. Whilst enjoying the slight chill that had begun to envelope us once we landed in Srinagar, we were surprised to see how little formalities there were, considering the security aspects, before we got on into our van enroute our hotel.
The city of Srinagar is a quiet one, retaining an old world charm about it. A clean city, the result of a strict ban on plastic, giving the visitors an idea or two on how to keep it so. It took a while though before we could come to terms with the insecure feeling that had slowly found its way back into our minds. All through the journey which took almost 45 minutes, we anticipated one bomb to go off under the van but no one had the courage to show it in their face.
The city of Srinagar is a quiet one, retaining an old world charm about it. A clean city, the result of a strict ban on plastic, giving the visitors an idea or two on how to keep it so. It took a while though before we could come to terms with the insecure feeling that had slowly found its way back into our minds. All through the journey which took almost 45 minutes, we anticipated one bomb to go off under the van but no one had the courage to show it in their face.
In the afternoon, we reached the famed Dal Lake, which was located at the centre of Srinagar City. The entire city was built around this placid lake which extended to a Km or more. Before we could enjoy the beauty of the Lake, we were ushered into the Shikaras which lay resplendent in rows. The rate, we were told, was fixed and so we just had to hop onto one and get moving. While enjoying the Shikara ride, it was as if we had overcome the first hurdle in conquering our fears and it was writ large on everybody's face. The coy Sharmila Tagore and the tame Shammi Kapoor suddenly came alive as we glided on and let the feeling sink in that we are really in Kashmir.
The next day saw us trooping out to visit the famed moghul gardens in the Srinagar City. There were four famous gardens and all were located nearby. As it was a Sunday, we could see the natives in large numbers enjoying the beauty of these gardens. The people were as beautiful as the roses that seemed to grow in abundance in the households there and we couldnt help but feel a bit jealous thinking of the pains we take to nurture a rose plant back home. These gardens dating back to centuries were carved out from hill tops giving them the tag "terraced" gardens. The greenery, broken only by the colourful flowers in vibrant hues vouched for the avowed beauty that Kashmir had come to signify. Nature surely had blessed this place.
Our plans to visit Pahalgam the next day was altered in the last minute as someone had suggested Sonamarg to be a better place for a single day visit. So we found ourselves driving to Sonamarg with anticipations of seeing snow in close quarters. Now, whatever fears we had had was chucked away, with a quiet assurance of nothing could happen in this beautiful place.
The way to Sonamarg took us to the interiors of Kashmir, a quiet countryside with fields and farming. As we moved on to the hilly areas, the sight afar of the snowclad mountains whetted our spirit of adventure. The first stop was at Snowpoint where laymen like us got the first hand experience of Snow in all its purity. The child in us overtook our inhibitions and almost everyone scrambled atop the snowy hilltop. The slippery terrain took us unawares and there were many a trip and fall amongst us, adding to the fun.The snow had started melting there and we saw how a mighty river is born. The angst of seperation was encapsulated in the swirling waters that thundered down.
At Sonamarg, we were surrounded by a huge crowd besotting us to take their horse for the ride atop. These hardy men clammering for a client was a sad reminder of the poverty that the terrorism hit tourism had granted them. But, the horse-ride was quite an experience. The chilly winds blowing into your face was both soothing and seering in turns. Like the characters in the movie Ice-Age we moved ahead slowly in the winding pathways. Sonamarg does not have any winter sports activities. So the whiteness of the snow, at times had an eerie loneliness about it. A sort of vacant dullness that could make you gloomy.
After reaching Snowpoint no.2, we had a halt. The gentlemen of the group went ahead to enjoy the sledge-ride on the wooden sledge that our escoters carried with them. Having seen pictures of modern equipments used in winter sports, this wooden sledge seemed a bit primitive, once again a grim reminder of the stagnation that the tourism industry was facing. But enjoyment is measured in the minds and there it got cent per cent marks.
On our way back, in between various stages of dozing, I caught a glimpse of a soldier standing guard hidden amongst the trees lining the highways. At first, I thought I was imagining things, but on keen watching I found more and more sentinels, yet another pointer to the ground reality.
In fact this led us to seek new meanings into ordinary things, like, why is there a road block everyday and at the most unexpected time? You can never return in the same road that u took while going. Was it a technique to ensure that nothing remained the same everyday and thus foil all bids to plan an attack. Or why is it that the room attendent make all sorts of reasons to barge into your room after you come back at night. Are the tourists also under scanner and if not, why would the Police Chief come to dine in your hotel, the food of which has nothing extraordinary to boast of. These were but some of the silly thoughts that fortunately did not take root for long, for, the beauty of Kashmir has such a magical effect.
Gulmarg, a name synonymous with Kashmir itself, was awaiting our arrival it seemed. For, the day we went there it was teeming with people enjoying the pleasant climate. Just the day before that, it was raining heavily and people couldnt even get down from the Gondolas ( ropeway) after reaching there. Nature can be fickle at the most inopportune time. But we were lucky.
Gulmarg epitomised the beauty of Kashmir. Be it the freshness of the snow clad mountains reaching out to the blue skies or the richness of the green valley that simply rolled out downhill, the place seemed ethereal. That such a place really existed on earth was hard to believe. It was indeed that Paradise on Earth as they say, for nothing could be more enchanting than this.
The tourists thronging Gulmarg allayed all our fears of what doom may befall Kashmir one day, for such was the tourist activities going on that it kindles a ray of hope. A hope that Kashmir will one day be able to get off the shackles that tie her down.
But that day is still a long way off was evident when we reached the Srinagar Airport the next day on our way back. As we neared the Airport, we felt as if we had strayed into a military camp. For such was the military ensemble there with army men and armoured vehicles. Before entering the airport, we had to put our luggage for security check and once inside, the routing checking was again carried out even more strictly. All the handbaggages were checked inside out and even before we had overcome the bewilderment at such stringent security measures, we are once again put through personal body checking before boarding the aircraft!!
This was a pointer to the real state of affairs in Kashmir. A reality check. And it pained us a lot. As our aircraft arose over the snowcapped mountains again, it was with a lump in the throat that we looked down to bid adieu to our beloved Kashmir.
At Sonamarg, we were surrounded by a huge crowd besotting us to take their horse for the ride atop. These hardy men clammering for a client was a sad reminder of the poverty that the terrorism hit tourism had granted them. But, the horse-ride was quite an experience. The chilly winds blowing into your face was both soothing and seering in turns. Like the characters in the movie Ice-Age we moved ahead slowly in the winding pathways. Sonamarg does not have any winter sports activities. So the whiteness of the snow, at times had an eerie loneliness about it. A sort of vacant dullness that could make you gloomy.
After reaching Snowpoint no.2, we had a halt. The gentlemen of the group went ahead to enjoy the sledge-ride on the wooden sledge that our escoters carried with them. Having seen pictures of modern equipments used in winter sports, this wooden sledge seemed a bit primitive, once again a grim reminder of the stagnation that the tourism industry was facing. But enjoyment is measured in the minds and there it got cent per cent marks.
On our way back, in between various stages of dozing, I caught a glimpse of a soldier standing guard hidden amongst the trees lining the highways. At first, I thought I was imagining things, but on keen watching I found more and more sentinels, yet another pointer to the ground reality.
In fact this led us to seek new meanings into ordinary things, like, why is there a road block everyday and at the most unexpected time? You can never return in the same road that u took while going. Was it a technique to ensure that nothing remained the same everyday and thus foil all bids to plan an attack. Or why is it that the room attendent make all sorts of reasons to barge into your room after you come back at night. Are the tourists also under scanner and if not, why would the Police Chief come to dine in your hotel, the food of which has nothing extraordinary to boast of. These were but some of the silly thoughts that fortunately did not take root for long, for, the beauty of Kashmir has such a magical effect.
Gulmarg, a name synonymous with Kashmir itself, was awaiting our arrival it seemed. For, the day we went there it was teeming with people enjoying the pleasant climate. Just the day before that, it was raining heavily and people couldnt even get down from the Gondolas ( ropeway) after reaching there. Nature can be fickle at the most inopportune time. But we were lucky.
Gulmarg epitomised the beauty of Kashmir. Be it the freshness of the snow clad mountains reaching out to the blue skies or the richness of the green valley that simply rolled out downhill, the place seemed ethereal. That such a place really existed on earth was hard to believe. It was indeed that Paradise on Earth as they say, for nothing could be more enchanting than this.
The tourists thronging Gulmarg allayed all our fears of what doom may befall Kashmir one day, for such was the tourist activities going on that it kindles a ray of hope. A hope that Kashmir will one day be able to get off the shackles that tie her down.
But that day is still a long way off was evident when we reached the Srinagar Airport the next day on our way back. As we neared the Airport, we felt as if we had strayed into a military camp. For such was the military ensemble there with army men and armoured vehicles. Before entering the airport, we had to put our luggage for security check and once inside, the routing checking was again carried out even more strictly. All the handbaggages were checked inside out and even before we had overcome the bewilderment at such stringent security measures, we are once again put through personal body checking before boarding the aircraft!!
This was a pointer to the real state of affairs in Kashmir. A reality check. And it pained us a lot. As our aircraft arose over the snowcapped mountains again, it was with a lump in the throat that we looked down to bid adieu to our beloved Kashmir.
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